![]() ![]() Steps 3-5 should be repeated 4-5 times.Place the STOP position on the engine run/stop switch.The fuel pump should be left running until it stops (about 2 seconds).Put the RUN position on the engine stop/run switch.In the ON position, turn the ignition key.Here are some short actions you can take: Having stated that, we must prime the fuel system once the motorcycle runs out of fuel before attempting to start the engine again. The completely primed fuel system is then pressurized for a speedy engine start by turning on the fuel pump once more. To release trapped air in the fuel system, the injectors are first managed for a brief period of time in response to the observed rate of pressure rise after the fuel pump has been initiated to pressurize the system. #12033997 10/12 AWG (3.0 mm²), #12066614 14/16 AWG (2.0-1.0 mm²), #12020156 18/20 AWG (0.80-0.50 mm²)Sensing the rise in fuel pressure during priming is a step in a fuel system priming procedure for an internal combustion engine with a returnless fuel system and electronic fuel injection. (Quick Fuel 30-199QFT Fuel Pump Relay Kit)ĭelphi Metri-Pack 630 Pull-To-Seat female terminals for retrofitting to a sealed relay socket connector: (Holley 12-753 Fuel Pump Relay Kit Instructions) Simply use the green fuel pump wire (+12V) to trigger your additional fuel pump relay's coil (+) terminal #86. I prefer to use 10 gauge wire due to its long length, especially for high output race pumps. It's only a 20 amp fuse and it also feeds power to the fuel injectors (& ignition coils - LSx, MOD & HEMI). The 2nd fuel pump relay is used so the fuel injectors aren't subjected to the pump's amp draw. I've always used a separate relay (shown below) because that green wire is still only 14 AWG. I've never used the ECU's fuel pump trigger wire to directly power the pump (even if it is less than 10 amps). When working properly, what stops the pump after 5 seconds of priming?The ECU triggers/controls the system relay. Well, I'd use a NEW relay because mine is bad, but you know what I mean. So I guess I could wire my old relay back in, and that should stop the pump (from what I'm reading). The red wire is the test/prime connector, which is direct power when the relay is UNtriggered.įrom reading through that thread you posted (and then following another link posted), I think you mentioned something about how the relay is (coiled) that causes the 5 second run time. Should be orange for constant +12V, which runs the pump when the relay is triggered. When working properly, what stops the pump after 5 seconds of priming? And while I will fix this, is there any issue with moving forward with instructions on how to do my first crank, fire, etc.? The key DOES turn it on & off, as I said, it just doesn't stop priming.Īlso, on that thread you listed, if that RED +12V wire he mentions is the red relay wire, then that's why it won't stop. I simply bypassed the old relay, and now the Holley/green wire is wired directly to the new relay via the old factory wiring. Per the Racetronix Hotwire Kit, the OLD relay is now simply supposed to trigger the NEW relay. Now, obviously it's possible something isn't wired right, but I've been over it again & again, and I can't see what it would be. Per the instructions, I turned the key to prime the pump. Global Folder is uploaded and I'm seeing sensor info on my laptop. '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio Ford AOD, 10" 3000 RPM C6 billet converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires. ![]() May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. ![]()
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